Buy it, grind it, brew it, and serve it. Fresh. |
In any case, suffice it to say that the taste and smell of foods - and, more to the point, beverages - changes due to contact with the air we breathe, and most of these changes are not for the better. Oxidation creates that nasty metallic taste, the perception of acridness, of overcooked. This process is particularly acute in two of my favorite beverages, wine and coffee (water, by my accounting the only other liquid truly essential to the sustenance of life, seems a bit more stable).
In the case of coffee, the important thing to know is that the process of oxidation begins immediately, and the engine for this process is heat (the excellent if slightly more technical discussion I base this on may be found here).
As soon as the bean is roasted, its taste and smell begins to degrade, in ways both subtle and profound: The compounds responsible for "good" flavors fade away, and the concentration of those responsible for "bad" flavors increases. The good news is that Mother Nature is also a coffee lover and, as is her wont, she designed the bean in a particularly clever way: First, the external structure of the bean itself traps and protects many of the desirable features of coffee's flavor profile inside; second, even after grinding, some of the aromatics remain inside the coffee by virtue of the bean's naturally occurring oils and waxes known as lipids.
So what's a deeply entrenched caffeine addict to do?
- Buy your beans in smaller amounts, as frequently as practical, and as close as possible to the date on which the beans were actually roasted. Clearly, this gives a huge edge to your local micro-roaster, and not because it's "free trade", or "local", or even because they buy better beans (all of which may, or may not, matter to you), but because the chemistry itself dictates that locally roasted coffee will taste better. Funny how often this basic lesson seems to come up so frequently in food and cooking, and how much better suited to good eating (albeit more time consuming) is the old-school model of grocery shopping, in which we would buy our daily bread from a baker, our vegetables from the produce stand of a farmer who grew them, the fish from a fishmonger who just caught it. Easy rule: If you can't figure out when it was roasted, you probably don't want to buy it.
- If you're going to store your beans for any length of time (and we do this as a matter of course - there is idealism, and there is keeping the family sane and the parents well-fueled at all times), try to get them in vacuum packs (to reduce air contact), and store them in the freezer (to mitigate the deleterious effects of temperature).
- Grind it when you're going to drink it, and only brew what you're going to drink. I don't know about you, but I just don't buy the argument that grinding your own beans is messy and time-consuming; and since the actual science tells me that I can drink better coffee simply by grinding my own, that seems to me a pretty cheap and easy way to consume a superior product. If you must brew a larger quantity first thing in the morning, then at least transfer it to an airtight carafe or thermos or whatever in order to slow down the nasty effects of heat and air on your beverage.
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